Walk-Through Site Evaluation

Explanation and Suggestions

Test/Link

The Test/link is used to note stations with the same sprinkler type, plant type, and sun exposure. Like stations can then be grouped together on the same program with the same run times.

System Location

Refers to where the station of sprinklers is located. For instance, station 1 may be the lawn on the left side of the front lawn. It is always a good idea to label each station with the area it covers.

Plant Type:

Refers to the type of plant in the area you are looking at or testing for water application rates. Be sure to fill this part in as it is very important information for programming a watering schedule in the sprinkler timer/controller.

Landscape Conditions

Dry areas

There are dry areas in the landscape that are not getting water.  Check to make sure sprinklers are not clogged, broken, or blocked.  If the sprinkler system is working correctly, increase irrigation run time.

Mulch - needed in area

We recommend the use of organic mulch 2” deep in all non-turf planting areas.  This will reduce evaporation, moderate soil temperatures, add nutrients to soil, and discourage weeds.  Keep mulch at least 6 inches away from the crown of plants to discourage disease.  Use crushed rock in place of organic mulch around very low water needing plants.

Over-watered area

There are areas in the landscape that are overly wet.  Check for sprinkler line and head breaks. Make repairs as needed.  If no breaks are found and the entire station area is wet and soft when stepped upon, reduce run time.

Ponding near plants

Ponding may be an indication that the sprinkler pattern is being blocked by plant foliage. Ponding can also indicate over-watering or applying water at a rate that is too high for your type of soil to absorb. Remove or cut back any foliage blocking sprinkler heads near the area. Also, follow the accompanying irrigation schedule may allow the soil to dry out partially between watering.

Run-off/sloped area

Run-off is when water is running away from the area being irrigated.

Lawn or shrubs in clay soil or sloped areas require a special irrigation technique called repeat cycling.  This means taking the estimated daily run time and dividing it into three or more separate run times. This allows the water to soak into the soil, instead of running onto sidewalks, driveways, or into the gutter.

Soil compaction – need to aerate

The turf areas require periodic aeration, which is the removal of cores or plugs from the lawn. Aerating increases air and water transfer to the rootzone, which is vital for a healthy lawn. Aerating is especially necessary in clay soils and in turf areas where there is heavy foot traffic.  It is recommended that you add compost to the area that was aerated to improve soil quality

Sun exposure

Valves should be separated by sun exposure as well as by irrigation type and plant water need where possible.  Sun exposure, solar radiation is a main contributor to plant water need.  Plants in sun will need more water than plants in shadier areas.

Thatch - excess

Thatch is the build-up of dead stems beneath the green surface of the lawn. De-thatching a lawn lets water and fertilizers reach the soil efficiently. Thatch build-up can also be an accumulation of lawn clippings and indicates a problem of over-fertilization, or the lawn may be mowed too low, or more than a third of the leaf blade is being cut at time of mowing. Consult with a local nursery or lawn care specialist to diagnose your specific problem.

Valves not separated by plant water need

This is when valves provide water to plants in different water-use categories at the same time. For instance, having your lawn and cactus garden on the same valve and being watered at the same time. For optimum water efficiency, separate these by adding additional irrigation valves. Shrubs and groundcover generally require less water, less frequently, and deeper watering, than lawn.

Irrigation type:

It is important to note the type of sprinkler being used on a station. Different types apply different amounts of water to a given area. Be sure each station has only one type of sprinkler.

Sprinkler Systems

Broken or Leaking Electric Valve or Pipe

These problems need to be fixed to save water and efficiently water the landscape. One sign of a leaking valve is the lowest head on the station is leaking and moss is growing in the area.

Broken or Clogged heads

Broken heads need to be fixed to save water and efficiently water the landscape. Clogged heads need to be cleaned to ensure proper coverage. Consider installing irrigation heads that have screens to prevent debris (grass, soil or bugs) from clogging the sprinkler heads.

Low head drainage

Low head drainage is the draining of water from the sprinkler system pipes through the lower heads after the system has been shut off.  Install check valves, or replace existing heads with heads that contain built-in check valves to prevent this from happening. This will save a significant amount of water (the water needed to refill and pressurize the system every time it is turned on), especially when using repeat cycles. Visit your local irrigation supply store for needed materials.

Low pressure

There is low pressure which results in short sprinkler throws that causes poor uniformity of water distribution.  Low pressure causes a heavy application of water in limited areas, which increases run-off.  Consult with a qualified professional on the possibility of redesigning the irrigation system.

Misting due to high pressure

Misting is a very fine spray that drifts downwind and creates high evaporation loss.  Usually the water pressure is higher than that recommended by the emitter manufacturer.  High pressure can be corrected with a pressure regulator after the meter; pressure regulating sprinkler heads; or devices added on the individual sprinkler heads. Visit your local irrigation supply store for needed materials.

Mismatched heads

Area is being irrigated with a variety of sprinkler types, causing low uniformity, i.e. rotors and spray heads.  Make adjustments so that the valves have the same kind of heads/nozzle; i.e., match application rates. Visit your local irrigation supply store for needed materials and information.

Over-spray

Water is being lost due to the sprinklers over-spraying the planting area.  The sprinklers’ spray patterns should either be adjusted or changed to a pattern that will stay within the planting area.  Another alternative would be to redesign the sprinkler system to use sprinkler heads that only sprayed the planting areas for each station.

Spray pattern Blocked or Misdirected

Spray pattern of irrigation head(s) is being blocked.  The irrigation head(s) need to be moved/raised to where they can spray as intended or the obstruction needs to be removed.

Incorrect spray arc

The spray arc is too wide/narrow for the area being watered.  Consider adjusting the spray pattern if possible, or replace the spray heads with the correct spray pattern.

Sunken heads/SHort pop-ups

There are sunken heads causing the spray pattern to be partially blocked due to the stream being intercepted by grass near the head.  This results in over-saturated areas near the head.  To correct the problem, raise the sunken head to grade or replace existing short pop-up heads in the lawn with 4 inches or taller pop-ups, as necessary.  You can also trim around existing heads to avoid blocking the spray but you will have to do this on a continual basis. Visit your local irrigation supply store for needed materials.

Tilted heads

Heads should be aligned vertically, except when on sloped areas.  If on a sloped area, heads should be aligned perpendicular to the slope to achieve proper coverage.  Tilted heads can cause ponding and uneven coverage decreasing the efficiency of the system.

Uneven or extended head spacing

Extended is too much space between the heads; uneven is too much space between the heads in some places, and too little space in others, resulting in no specific pattern to the placement of the sprinkler heads. To ensure even water distribution, sprinkler heads need to have head-to-head spacing (the water from one sprinkler should reach the sprinkler heads around it).  Consult with a qualified professional to design a system with head-to-head spacing.

Drip Systems

Emitters are Missing, Broken, or Clogged

Missing, clogged, and broken emitters need to be replaced to keep the system running efficiently.  The clogging could be caused by dirt in the water line.  Check to make sure the drip system has a filter, if not one needs to be installed. Visit your local irrigation supply store for needed materials.

Emitters too close/far from plant

Plants are receiving too much, or too little water as a result of the drip placement

Emitters need to be at the edge of the root-ball on new plantings and moved out to the drip line (edge of foliage) of established plants.

High pressure/fitting popping off tubing

Look to see if a pressure regulator is installed on the system where compression fittings and emitters are popping off the line.  Install a pressure regulator on the valve for all drip station(s). Visit your local irrigation supply store for needed materials.

Pinched or broken tubing

Pinched tubing needs to be straightened or replaced.  Broken tubing needs to be fixed to save water and efficiently water the landscape.

Tubing pulled or blown off connections

Tubing needs to be properly reattached to all connections, or replaced.  If the system does not have a pressure regulator, one needs to be installed or the condition will continue happen. Visit your local irrigation supply store for needed materials.